Seam for sewed articles



(No Model.)

W. P. GAMMONS, Jr. BEAM FOR SEWED ARTIGLES- No. 555,478 Patented Feb. 25, 1896.

0 if)? 8 S I 71 21611727 ma -Me] "II!" B GRAHAM PHOTO UTHOYWASNINGFDNDC UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

\VELCOME P. GAMMONS, JR, OF NEW YORK, N. Y., ASSIGNOR OF ONE-HALF TO GEORGE S. BRACHER, OF RAHWVAY, NEIV JERSEY.

SEAM FOR SEWED ARTICLES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 555,478, dated'February 25, 1896.

Application filed April 16, 1892.

To ctZZ whom, it may concern;

Be it known that I, l/VELOOME P. GAMMONS, J r., a citizen of the United States, residing at New York, in the county of New York and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Methods of Sewing Sweat-Bands and Reeds in Hatsnand I do declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

My invention relates to improvements in the seams of sewed articles; and it consists of a single-thread seam designed more particularly for application to hats and one through the medium of which a sweat-band and reedcloth may be connected together by stitches placed close together, and also connected to a hat by stitches placed comparatively far apart, all in one continuous operation.

For the purpose of imparting a full understanding of my invention I will describe the seam in conjunction with mechanism for forming it so as to connect a sweat-band, reed-cloth, and hat in the manner stated. This mechanism and the hat embodying my improved seam will be fully understood from the following description when taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, in which Figure 1 is a detail View of a portion of an organized stitch-forming mechanism. Fig. 2 is a detail view of the needle-plate and the several guides for the hat, the reed-cloth, and the sweat-band. Fig. 3 is a detail view of a portion of a hat, illustrating my improved seam as connecting the sweat-band, reedcloth,-and hat; and Figs. 4: and 5 are detail views illustrating the seam.

Referring by letter and numerals to said drawings, A indicates a reed such as used in hat-linings, and B indicates the reed-coverin g. The reed-covering is folded over the reed A, and the reed thus covered, together with the sweat-band O, is properly guided to the hat D and the reed-coverin g is stitched to the sweatband and to the hat at one operation, the

stitches which secure the sweat-band and reed-cloth to the hat being located at intervals apart and the distance or number of intervening stitches, which simply secure the Serial No. 429,462. (No model.)

sweat-band and reed-cloth together, being regulated to suit the requirements of the case.

The head 10, loop-taking device 8, needlebar 7, guide-wheel 6, feed-wheel 6, and the guides 9 are parts of a stitch-formin g mechanism and may be constructed and operated in the usual manner. The upper plate 2 (better shown-in Fig. 2) is secured to the plate 1 and supports the sweat-band guide 3 and has the combined reed-guide and reed-cover folder 5 connected to it, as shown. The back guide 6 for the hat is attached to the lower edge of the plate 1. The lower trough-shaped guide 8 for the sweat-band is conveniently supported.

The combined reed-guide and reed-cover folder 5 is of an inverted-trough shape, having its edge portion a recurved and between and approximately parallel with the sides of the guide and supporting a tube or funnel b, which is secured to the top edge thereof. The tube 1) is the reed-guide and the invertedtrough-shape port-ion the folder.

The mechanism described, as before stated, forms no part of my invention and is simply illustrated and described in order to impart a clear understanding of the manner in which my improved seam is formed.

In operating the mechanism the folded edge of the hat D, the sweat-band O, the reed A, and reed-cover B are guided to their proper positions by the guides hereinbefore described, the reed and reed-cover being interposed between the sweat-band and hat and the reed being inclosed in said cover. The stitch-formin g mechanism is then started, and the parts are actuated so that the sweatband and-reed-cloth will be secured together by successive stitches and will be secured to the hat by isolated stitches or stitches separated by about twelve (more orless) stitches all with one thread and in one continuous operation. The stitches which engage the hat are carried through the inner face of the folded edge of the hat and not through the hat. In this way the formation of apertures which would permit the passage of perspiration from the inside to the outside of the hat is obviated. By reason of the foregoing it will be observed that the objectionable necessity of handling the parts of the hat twice is obviated, and that while the connection of the sweat-band and the reed-cloth to the hat is strong and secure the connection of the brim to the crown of the hat is not weakened, which is an objectionable incident of those seams in which every stitch that takes through the sweat-band and reed-cloth also takes through the hat.

Having described my invention, what I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, 1s

As an improvement in the seams of sewed articles, a fold of one part, an edge of another part applied to the fold, a fold of another part interposed between the edge part and first or outer fold, a reed placed in the intermediate fold, and a thread arranged to form a series of stitches through the edge part and the intermediate fold and around the reed only, and a loop of the same thread at intervals taking through the edge part, the intermediate fold and also through the inner face of the first or outer fold by a whip-overseain without penetrating through the fold whereby the parts are united, the edge covered, and the whole attached to the outer fold, substantially as specified.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

WELCOME P. GAMMONS, JR.

Witnesses:

ROBERT E. LESTER, GEO. S. BRACIIER. 

